Tension Set Rings - Design Alternatives



Posted: Tuesday, April 13, 2010

by Vasco Kirov
Kirov Jewelry Studio

Some 30 years after the introduction of the first tension set ring by Niessing the number of designs based on its concept is overwhelming. This design proved that even in jewelry design one good idea can branch out into years of ongoing trend. Let`s see what is a tension ring setting?

The original and still very popular design is a simple, excessively thick open band, holding a gemstone, most often diamond suspended between its two ends. Two groves precut in the opposing sides accommodate the girdle of the stone assuring its right positioning and preventing it from slipping out. The secure hold is provided by the tension of the work hardened metal springing back - the stronger the tension the safer the setting. The usual metal used is platinum since the mechanical properties of this strong metal provide sufficient tension for very secure hold. Many variations of this design hit the market since then – from simple copies of the original to ones with completely radical use of the tension concept. While some of them were real showcase of professional creativity others were trying to offer more affordable diamond ring alternatives and this is where the things got out of the initial safe context.

The long price tag of tension set ring comes from its excessive weight and the use of platinum as media. The excessive weight is a necessary precondition for higher tension, hence safe setting. While on conventional setting the shank could be fairly delicate or at least get gradually thinner between the fingers and at the back, tension settings could be anything but delicate. In order to provide sufficient tension for safe setting the tension shank must have considerable thickness at the back uniform all around or gradually increasing to the top. This calls for very thick, doughnut - like shanks which might feel uncomfortable between the fingers. The exchange of platinum with gold alloy in order to meet lower budgets is safe only when suitable high tension alloy is in place and this is not option for many manufacturers. Many small manufacturers tried to reduce the weight which resulted in many lost diamonds and the perception that the tension set is unsafe. This is where the designers came with the connecting link on tension designs. A small link joining the two parts of the shank behind the diamond eliminates the need of tension for secure setting. Of course this is not real tension setting since tension is not part of the concept but it provides identical look once on the finger and brings along plenty of benefits. What are the advantages of both designs?

Linked ring

It can be made in any metal currently in use for fine jewelry

Provides structure for very safe setting

Eliminates the need of excessive thickness and the adjoined weight and high price

Makes way for delicate and balanced design line impossible with the original design.

The rings are very comfortable and strong, perfectly suitable for active lifestyle.

Original design

Interesting look of the suspended stone noticeable only when viewed off the finger

The name of tension set ring can be rightfully applied.

The names “original" and “real" often override practicality and in many cases it is the right thing to do. In the tension setting ring’s case however, after the above assessment, I consider the link version as the improved one and undoubtedly choose it for my range. It gives me the opportunity to offer more comfortable, elegant looking, safe and much cheaper alternative to the original.

Vasco Kirov is an experienced designer and master goldsmith with vast knowledge in every aspect concerning fine jewelry. He has been awarded many prestigious design awards for excellence in diamond jewelry design. Vasco’s recently launched Gemstone and Jewelry Blog contains additional information about tension set rings and plenty of industry’s insider tips on “how to" in today’s jewelry market. For practical answers to all your jewelry questions visit http://www.jewelgateway.net

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